newSKY: An Innovative Approach to Shoe Design

Design Lead for Wellness Drew Spieth and Senior Designer Christine Hall discuss the creation of newSKY.

With a minimal, thoughtfully-designed upper constructed entirely out of fabric made from post-consumer plastic bottles, newSKY represents an innovative approach to both material and shoe design as part of a greater effort from New Balance to adopt more sustainable practices. To learn more about the shoe’s development, we sat down with New Balance Senior Designer Christine Hall and Design Lead for Wellness Drew Spieth to discuss how they used recycled material to create a comfortable, stylish shoe.

“The principles of shoemaking didn’t necessarily apply to this fabric,” said Drew. “It doesn’t work like a regular shoe material.” To accommodate the fabric’s unique characteristics, the designers decided to reduce the amount of extraneous elements, including only what’s necessary and leaving out what’s not – a purposeful approach to shoe design that New Balance continues to implement through footwear collections such as the NB Minimus. In the development of newSKY, the designers borrowed elements from NB Minimus by utilizing the same outsole and last. “For the design intent of the upper, the same philosophies are applied – minimizing the amount of materials used so you’re not over-building the shoe, but making it as comfortable as possible,” said Drew.

The decision to use recycled fabric for the entire upper was one of the biggest hurdles to overcome, as well as the greatest opportunity for innovation. “A typical shoe has a lot of different types of materials,” said Drew. “What’s really interesting about this is, aside from the foam and the little rubber components [on the outsole] and a little bit of water based glue, the only material here is the recycled fabric.”

The designers were confronted with the challenge of replacing traditional elements of shoe construction such as foam, leather, or plastic with the recycled material – all while maintaining both comfort and durability. ”With every piece of the shoe we were challenged to go back to our old standbys for a lot of materials,” said Drew.

Every component has a specific purpose – boards that display each piece of material help the designers decide what to keep and what to leave out.

In traditional shoe design, materials like plastic and leather provide shape and structure; however, the designers reduced the need for conventional reinforcements. Typically, a rigid counter would be used to support the heel, but here, the heel has been reinforced with strategic stitching along the back seam combined with a thicker weight of fabric. “The heel is where most of the reinforcing happens,” said Christine. “But when we doubled-up the material you don’t need any reinforcement because the material is doing it itself.”

By working with the fabric’s distinctive features, the designers eliminated the need for many traditional, non-recycled materials. For a typical shoe, “there’s foam, a reinforcer, another reinforcer, and an external material,” said Drew. “A lot of stuff goes in there and we stripped all that out.”

The completed design of newSKY.

To learn more about how the fabric moved, flexed, and held up under different construction methods, the designers experimented with the shoe’s assembly. In early prototypes, the material was molded to see how it would react – the fabric was cut into one piece, heated, and then pressed to form the shape of the shoe. “As you mold it, the material becomes very rigid, so it has a really interesting look to it, but it’s kind of hard.” said Christine. “In our own design ethos, one of the things we talk about a lot is comfort and something that feels really nice and soft.” The decision was made to revert to a more traditional stitching technique – allowing the recycled material to be soft, pliable, but most importantly, very comfortable on the foot.

In the final design, each element of newSKY is a testament to thoughtful shoe construction through an innovative use of material. Fabric made from post-consumer plastic bottles was developed into a comfortable, well-designed shoe. “It was a big goal to keep it functional and looking stylish,” said Drew. “At the end of the day, it looks like an interesting shoe and also looks great on the foot.”

DJ Mars Runs Through His Past, Present, and Future

 

In his video’s opening statement, DJ Mars sums it all up: “I’m not an athlete, but I feel like I’ve been running my entire life.” That idea kicked off the “Where Are You Running To?” collaboration between Mars and New Balance, a collection of testimony and short films documenting how NB plays an important part in the lives of not just athletes, but all those who are constantly running.

NewBalance.com: What does “Where Are You Running To?” mean to you? What were some of your goals for this series as a whole?

DJ Mars: “Where are you running to?” is a phrase that describes my lifestyle. The term isn’t specific to me, it could be applied to anyone who has a busy schedule. For example, the single mother who has to take her children to school and then rush to work. The businessman who travels overseas for a company meeting. Or in my case, the DJ who lives in hotels more often than his own house. All of these people come from different walks of life, but share one common thing – they’re all extremely busy!

The goal was to offer the brand and its consumers a new way of looking at each other. Often thought of as just a running brand, New Balance has a place in all of our lives.

NewBalance.com: What was your first pair of NBs? What about your most memorable pair?

DJ Mars: My first pair of New Balances were probably a pair of 576s. I don’t remember the model number but I do remember the color was navy and grey.

My uncle bought them for me in 1985. I remember him buying them in Holyoke, Massachusetts. They were the most expensive shoes that I owned at the time.

As far as my most memorable pair, ironically, I would have to say my black 710s. There’s a back story to that shoe for me. Back in high school, my friends and I all worked at McDonald’s, and we used to save our money to go shopping in New York. Well, one Christmas we all went to NY and we found them at a store in Flatbush, Brooklyn. Sometime after that, a rapper named Kool G. Rap had on a pair on either his album or video, and we were super excited that we had the shoes before he did. Back then, most kids got their sense of style from the rappers. We were ahead of the curve.

NewBalance.com: What does New Balance as a brand mean to you, and what do you think it means to Hip Hop culture as a whole?

DJ Mars: In the late 80’s and early 90’s New Balance was one of the shoes of choice in the Hip Hop community. Especially when the rappers were dressing preppy. That was the shoe that set them apart from the Run DMC era.

To me New Balance means classic, iconic, simple style. Nothing too over the top or corny. They are who they are, and that’s it. Either you like it or you don’t, and that’s kind of how Hip Hop is. Both of them have an “I’m here to stay” vibe to them.

 

Original ‘Where Are You Running To’ Concept Video

NewBalance.com: What young artists do you see as the future of Hip Hop?

DJ Mars: As far as the future of Hip Hop, there are a lot of very exciting groups out there. Some of my favorite new ones are Jay Electronica, Killa Mike, Foreign Exchange, The Hall of Justice Crew, Pac Div, and The New Boyz. Those are some of my favorite new MC’s. On any given day you could find me listening to them.

NewBalance.com: How do you handle an unresponsive or negative crowd? Was there ever a time when you temporarily lost an audience, and then switched things up and won them back?

DJ Mars: Sometimes crowds can be very unpredictable. You can walk into a room and have no idea as to what the crowd is into that particular night. There have been times where I decided to go left and the crowd was like, “na brother you better stay right!” Good DJs are ones who can bounce back from that moment. It happens to every single one of us. If a DJ says otherwise, either he doesn’t play out too often or he’s lying.

NewBalance.com: Has Max the dog ever chewed up a pair of your NBs?

DJ Mars: Thank God I had Max go through obedience training before I brought him home. With that being said, he has not sunk his teeth into a pair of New Balance’s. That’s a funny thing, because most dogs tear their owners’ shoes up. Max on the other hand opts for his beef bone.

NewBalance.com: What are your other passions outside of DJing? If for some reason you had to give up DJing, what else would you be doing?

DJ Mars: Outside of DJing, I would definitely say I have a passion for brand development and marketing. In college I always felt as though marketing should have been my major. DJs far and wide are responsible for finding the new cool. Be it records, fashion, club venues, products, or artists, we are a part of the cycle that makes things hot.

I want to approach marketing and brand development the same way I would a new record. By that, I mean find a product that has potential and magnify it for my world to see.

NewBalance.com: You’ve done a lot in your career – toured with Outkast and Usher, founded the World Famous Super Friends, and became a star in the DJ scene. What are some goals you’re still running to?

DJ Mars: I’ve done a lot, but I would definitely say there are a few more things I’d like to scratch off my list. I’m just starting to get into production, I believe that’s the next step for me. I want to tour the world on accord, meaning go because DJ Mars is being booked – not the artist that I work for. And most importantly, have my company be viewed as a resource to reach untapped markets. I appreciate New Balance for having that initial faith in me.

DJ Mars is a graduate of Clark Atlanta University, a founder of the World Famous Super Friends, and was a contender on last year’s Smirnoff: Master of the Mix. Be sure to check back here for more on the “Where Are You Running To?” project, and for new videos every week. For more information on DJ Mars, visit his blog at historyofmixtapes.com.

Millimeters and Midfoot Strike

Inside the New Balance Sports lab and the search for the ideal heel-to-midfoot drop

Anton Krupicka running on a Sports Research Lab treadmill: TenBroek: “We set up to capture motion capture data on his gait. Kyle Skaggs is awaiting his turn in the background also. We can capture how these guys move in a typical product and then see how they move in something like the NB Minimus.” 

Trampas TenBroek spends his days contemplating, and calculating, the implications of millimeters. Here, in the New Balance Sports Research Lab, where a team with backgrounds in mechanical engineering, anatomy, biomechanics and physics is gleaning new sets of insights about the way in which we run, small measurements have enormous implications. In the development of NB Minimus, for which the 4mm heel-to-midfoot drop has been a source of significant discussion both inside and outside of New Balance, the work of the Sports Research Lab has been a study in both the way our bodies behave, and the ways in which our shoes change that behavior.

As it turns out, these millimeters have a profound impact on the way in which we think about designing a shoe.

“The shoe industry and biomechanics community have believed for years that large loading rates (the measure of the speed and force with which a runner strikes the ground) are detrimental to the body,” says TenBroek. “This is why we put a lot of cushioned foam in most trainers. This foam reduces the loading rates at impact compared to landing the same way with less-cushioned materials.”

The recent interest in minimalist running — and a critical part of the development of NB Minimus — is connected to the increase in discussion about the virtues of midfoot striking. This technique represents a significant change in the way many runners, accustomed to striking on the heavily-cushioned heel, approach their form. The Sports Research Lab team viewed the use of NB Minimus as working hand-in-hand with an ongoing transition to midfoot striking — a process that was part product design and part form.

“We also know changing other things about the way your run can reduce these loading rates, such as taking smaller steps and utilizing other joints,” said TenBroek. “It turns out that running on the midfoot encourages this approach. Therefore you can get away with less material underfoot, if you change some things about the way you run.”

The foundation for these conclusions lies in the lab itself — a collection of gear (and gearheads) on the lower levels of New Balance’s design offices in Lawrence, Massachusetts. Here, the team puts a range of runners through their paces, on a treadmill surrounded by high-speed cameras capturing every muscle twitch and turn, over a glass force plate implanted with piezoelectric crystals that capture the minute directional forces in a runner’s strike. The Sports Research Lab team understands the ways in which we all run, in far more precise terms than most of us do.

“The problem is that it is difficult for most to change the way they run a great deal. With this in mind, we wanted to make sure we had enough material under the heel for most of these people. This helped drive how thick the heel of the NB Minimus would be.”

The mechanics of midfoot striking have implications for product development, though, that extend beyond simply reducing the material under the heel, and lowering the profile of the shoe.

“Reducing underfoot material almost always requires the body to change the way it runs — likely moving towards a midfoot strike and shorter steps” says TenBroek.

The work of the Sports Research Lab team becomes far more difficult to quantify and measure when it comes to understanding what runners feel — and turning that feedback into insights that drive the development of a shoe like NB Minimus. The team tested extensively each iteration of the NB Minimus prototypes — from recreational runners to elite ultramarathoners like Tony Krupicka and Kyle Skaggs, whose insights and ideas had driven much of the initial thinking behind the shoes.

“The design input that I’ve had in the [NB] Minimus and the 101 is really an outgrowth of the modifications I’ve made to my shoes in the past — especially in [NB] Minimus where it’s down to a 4mm drop between the heel and forefoot. It’s really close to a shoe that I’m 100% comfortable in and don’t need to do any modifications to. That’s super exciting — to go from shoes that I feel the need to carve up to ‘BOOM’: just being able to take a shoe that I helped design out of the box, put it on my foot and go running.”

– Tony Krupicka in Return to Leadville

“Through our wear testing and the people we had in the lab running in the product we created with varying drops and midsole thicknesses, we learned that going from a 10-12mm drop, which the vast majority of trainers are, to nothing or very little drop can lead to some pretty significant soreness. That isn’t to say that “some” soreness isn’t normal and likely not damaging for most; however, there is a point where soreness is not good soreness or harmless soreness and it is often difficult for people to know the difference” says TenBroek. “Runners did eventually acclimate to the changes in drop but more drop takes longer to acclimate to. The 4mm drop yielded the preferred ride of the heights that were tested.”

While the 4mm drop represents the ideal specification for runners making the transition to a closer-to-barefoot experience, the work of the Sports Research Lab on NB Minimus is far from complete. New Balance is continually gathering feedback, both inside and outside of the lab, which will shape the next round of NB Minimus shoes.

 

Glossary

Drop: ‘Drop’ is the difference between heel height and toe height. All NB Minimus shoes have a 4mm drop which provides a more neutral foot position than traditional shoes (which average a 12mm drop).

What loading rates look like: The data from the in-shoe pressure system used in the New Balance Sports Research Lab can be converted to three dimensional animations of the runner’s strike, illustrating the impact on the runner’s foot through the stride.

The force plate: A glass plate mounted on a concrete and steel structure and made with piezoelectric crystals, measures a runner’s force in three directions: left-to-right, forward-to-back, and vertically.

Purposeful Design And The Upcoming NB 890

When you pick up the upcoming NB 890 off of a shelf in a store, you will probably sense a certain harmony to its look, shape, and style, but you might not immediately know why. When function, design, and aesthetics are all considered together in the service of bigger questions throughout the creation of a new shoe, in the hands of the designer every detail, every choice, every line tells an important part of the story. This is purposeful design. And the resulting finished piece has a certain consistency and wholeness to it, that you can see and feel even if you don’t know much about the choices that produced it.

The New Balance Design Innovation Studio, led by JF Fullum, is about asking and following up on open-ended questions, and sometimes those questions become pathways to creating new products.

“What can the minimalist design of this foul weather jacket, or the seamless contours of that bra, teach us about new ways to think about structure and materials?” “How can we use technology and learning tools to help a runner who wants to improve their form?” Some of these lines of inquiry are kicked off by requests from elsewhere in the company; others are hatched from the team’s own observations and pointed introspection.

The project that led to the development of the upcoming 890 with RevLite technology has its roots in questions like “What would a shoe designed by runners outside of the footwear industry look like?” “What would a truly ‘no-BS’ shoe be?” As a first step, Fullum and the Innovation Studio team did some initial research along these lines and put together a short presentation that included design inspirations, potential approaches, and conceptual goals rooted in making a lighter, simpler trainer without sacrificing any key performance traits.

As it turned out, this research aligned well with a larger New Balance initiative focusing on lighter, more minimal shoes across the board. Additional conversations and research firmed up those initial questions into more pointed ones like “How can we make a lightweight everyday trainer that doesn’t sacrifice cushioning, ground feel, or support? How can we shave a full 2 ounces off of our neutral cushioning shoes and still deliver a great ride and keep the key measurements the same?” From there, development began in earnest and the RevLite project was born.

The following photos and their captions trace the design and development process Fullum led that culmonated in the upcoming NB 890 with RevLite – a process that also influenced and inspired innovation across NB product lines:

Benchmarking: The team rounded up similar shoes from competitors in the market and calculated the average of all of their key measurements, to establish some numerical goals.
Purposeful Design Exercise: The team dissected a shoe comparable in terms of cushioning and stablility in the company’s own line. They pinned it up for observation like a dissected frog and relentlessly re-evaluated each piece, asking questions like…is this piece serving an essential need? Is it possible to achieve this same effect with less weight? Can we do the same thing with fewer pieces? How can we reduce the number of parts while not sacrificing fit, support, comfort, quality?
Sketching and Exploration: From here, Fullum took to paper and pen and started to sketch. “I always see it as different parts within one shoe – I like to figure out each piece separately and then bring it all together.” The sketch phase usually takes about two weeks. At some point, Fullum finds a single element that makes sense, and he then focuses on that until it’s locked down. One detail falls into place first, and then he works through that, freezes it, and goes back to sketching until another detail emerges.
First Design Insight: In this case, a sketch of possible forefoot language is the first detail that both visually and structurally looked and felt right to Fullum. It was a single approach to an element that spoke to the overall goals of the project in its simple, purposeful design.
First Detail: A sketch of some diamond shapes similarly stuck out to Fullum as something to investigate further. As it turned out, cutting some diamond-shaped pieces out of the midsole in relief created a sort of independent suspension that reduced weight, created an interesting design aesthetic, and preserved the sole’s comfortable ride and smooth transition. The diamond motif would also show up on the sole pattern, where it helps with grip and transition.
Sole and Arch: With Good Form Running principles in mind, Fullum made the arch flat to assist with forefoot or midfoot striking, removed the plastic scoop that sits in many arches (which also saved weight), and created diagonal lines in the sole to help ease the transition from the foot’s initial contact with the ground through the full stride.
The Midsole: Fullum next challenged the engineering group, including Sean Murphy and Pat Choe, to come up with a new, lighter-weight foam that wouldn’t sacrifice feel or durability. After working with materials vendors and a number of compounds, they arrived at what would become RevLite. “It’s very light and feels really responsive,” reports Fullum. As an initial indicator of performance (prior to more pointed testing) for each foam under consideration, he took existing NB soles, shot the foam into them, and took off down the hall to see what it would feel like under his feet. RevLite was a clear winner, even in the hallway test.
The Tongue and Laces: Most shoes have a big piece of foam across the tongue, there to help cushion the top of the foot against the laces and knot. But in the quest to reduce weight and simplify to the absolute performance essentials, Fullum found he could reduce the amount of foam in the 890 to just the middle section without affecting comfort. For laces, he looked at the flatter, softer laces of typical racing flats, and found them to be a good fit for the 890. Based on the flat shape of this lace, he also made the holes flat instead of round, which helps them lock into place.
Aesthetics and Materials: The purposeful design process Fullum followed on the 890 all along saw aesthetics considered hand in hand with function, so many of the design decisions were already made once the structural elements were finalized. The team’s goal for the overall look of the shoe was to allow for an easy transition between running and everyday wear, a trainer that performs as well with jeans as it does on the track. To achieve this, they reduced the number of visible technical elements and surfaces to an absolute minimum, chose soft but durable synthetics and suedes, and reduced color palettes down to a few key colors.

Fullum describes the resulting 890 as a shoe for the runner who is interested in trying something new and exciting on their feet, but still wants to be confident about maintaining his or her current, traditional running practice. With its fairly traditional heel lift and neutral cushioning, it serves as an exciting alternative everyday running shoe to fans of the New Balance 759 or Nike Lunar Glide, both of which it beats by over an ounce at 9.65 oz., rather than those seeking a truly minimalist, barefoot-inspired shoe like NB Minimus. The 890 will be available in retail stores in February. Watch for updates to a number of New Balance lines in the upcoming months based on the approaches and principles outlined above, bringing lighter-weight, more streamlined designs to many of your favorite styles

Heidi Klum Teams with New Balance

Heidi Klum for New Balance Collection will Launch Exclusively on Amazon for Fall 2010

– Supermodel, designer and fashion powerhouse Heidi Klum has created a versatile active wear collection for New Balance perfect for modern women on-the-go called Heidi Klum for New Balance launching this Fall 2010 exclusively on Amazon.

“Busy women, like me, have changed their way of shopping.  We now shop online,” says Heidi Klum.  “I’m proud to announce that I have designed a line of active wear for New Balance that will be sold exclusively on Amazon.  I could not think of an easier way to shop than from my bed on my laptop!  Our lives as mothers, wives, working women have become so much more than ever before.  Whether we are dropping the kids off at school, going out with friends, running errands, running to meetings or swinging by your favorite coffee shop in the morning, we all have one thing in common – we want to be stylish, comfortable and hip!”

Heidi Klum for New Balance will include haute tunics, knits, woven tops, leggings and outerwear pieces, developed to fit every body type and designed with cottons and silks that incorporate hand-woven stitching and intricate details.  The line will retail from $32-168 and will be available in the United States, United Kingdom, Germany & Japan beginning October 7th 2010 exclusively on Amazon.

The collection reflects Heidi’s modern, sophisticated style and consists of easy, go-to pieces that add a dash of unexpected chic to even the most routine errand.

“Heidi Klum for New Balance combines New Balance’s expertise in fit and form with Heidi’s commitment to sophisticated style to create a versatile collection for women that is both everyday wearable and luxurious,” says Kerry Kligerman, Executive Vice President of Apparel for New Balance.

This partnership reflects global athletic and lifestyle leader New Balance’s commitment to delivering innovative and fashion-forward apparel that meets the needs and desires of women in motion.

“Like so many of our customers, Heidi is a busy mom who cares about fashion and ease in equal measure.  The line is amazing – gorgeous fabrics, incredibly styled – and we’re thrilled to be launching it in the Amazon Clothing Store,” says Cathy Beaudoin, Vice President, Apparel at Amazon.

Amazon continues to grow as a fashion destination offering an easy and engaging shopping experience, an expanded selection of premium brands and an elevated, editorial point of view with the great prices customers have come to expect.   The Heidi Klum for New Balance collection will be showcased in its own boutique on the website.

Klum visualized the ad campaign for Heidi Klum for New Balance, shot by famed photographer Rankin, with Jan Dikkers, Amazon Clothing’s creative director.  “I am all about action and so is my line for New Balance; so for our first campaign, I envisioned myself on the trampoline – a fun symbol of energy and activity,” says Klum.  “We have one in our backyard and my kids love it, so I spend a lot of time on it myself!”  The multifaceted campaign will include an integrated viral component and print ads that will run in national publications beginning in November.

Limited Edition New Balance x UNDFTD Sonic 574

09.01.2010 – For Fall 2010, premium footwear brand New Balance and renowned sneaker shop Undefeated have joined forces to create the New Balance x UNDFTD Sonic 574, a limited edition fleece sneaker inspired by retro sweatshirts from the 80’s.

James Bond, co-founder of Undefeated, says the “reverse weave fleece that is loved by athletes and spectators alike is the perfect canvas to showcase and celebrate the classic American history of the two brands.” The New Balance x UNDFTD Sonic 574’s upper textile is a heather grey sweatshirt material sonically bonded with the synthetic suede complete with varsity “N” detailing. Undefeated will also be launching coordinating apparel for this project.

The New Balance x Sonic 574 comes in grey and black and will be sold at Undefeated stores starting September 1st, 2010. (MSRP $75.00)

Via pitchengine.

Idea Submission

Inventors,

New Balance prides itself on our innovative heritage, so we deeply understand and appreciate the desire to create something that could, quite possibly, change the world. With that in mind, we’d like to share with you the following guidelines for submitting ideas to New Balance.

  • Does your idea fit within the New Balance business model and add new features to our product lines, footwear, design concepts, accessories, and apparel?
  • Is the idea unique? Have you done a search on Google or a search on the United States Patent and Trademark Office?
  • Have you applied for or been granted a Patent? If granted (or published), provide patent (or publication) number and copy of patent.
  • Do you need a patent attorney or patent agent to help you determine the novelty of your idea or to file a patent? If so, consult the following US Patent Attorney and Agents Search site.
  • Is your idea commercially viable? For example, could it be manufactured and sold for a reasonable price? Have you approached manufacturing or design firms to obtain cost estimates for prototyping and manufacturing your idea?

If you feel your idea satisfies the previous questions, download the Submission Form PDF and return to the supplied address or email it to:  ideas@newbalance.com

New Balance MR790 Sale

With all the hype surrounding barefoot/minimus running and the release of the New Balance MT101 and other minimal footwear a ways away (March 2011), let’s not forget about the shoe that started it- New Balance MR790. This shoe is just about the only New Balance running shoe out there that will help mimic barefoot running.

Right now, we have 3 different colors in full stock! Stop by and check them out today, as they go out of stock with a quickness. As a special offer, enter in “school” @ checkout to save 10% off your purchase + receive Free Shipping!

MR790BKR

MR790WNG

MR790GBY